Xiaolongbao and shengjian usually get most of the attention from visitors to Shanghai, but the city’s noodle scene deserves just as much attention. One excellent place to start is Huxi Old Alley Noodles, a humble local chain serving rich, deeply savoury dry noodles that have earned a loyal following across Shanghai.
Unlike some of the century-old xiaolongbao restaurants I’ve covered, Huxi Old Alley Noodles is relatively new. The original Dingxi Road branch opened in 2017 and still draws heavy crowds today. In Shanghai’s brutally competitive restaurant scene, places rarely survive this long unless the food is genuinely good.
This is a very local, no frills establishment so it will require a bit of determination to enjoy your noodles here, but the payoff will be worth it. You order at the entrance before getting your seat which always seems risky but somehow, it always works out that by the time your noodles are ready, you will have found a seat. For this reason, this is not the place to sit and linger. Once you’ve enjoyed your bowl of noodles, it’s time to move on and let some of the waiting customers take your seat.
The options are scribbled on a blackboard behind the cashier in Chinese. You’re unlikely to find any English on the menu, but ordering is fairly straightforward once you know what to look for. The signature noodle dish is 蛤蜊猪肝拌面, 大肠拌面 (clams with pig’s liver). It’s not for everyone so if that’s a bit too adventurous for your liking, they have a great alternative and it’s my go-to choice, the 辣肉面 (spicy pork noodles).
All the noodles come with a rich, thick sauce that characterises this type of noodle dish. Give everything a thorough stir before eating as most of the sauce sits hidden at the bottom of the bowl. You can get extra noodles if you’re still hungry without extra charge, but I’ve never needed that myself.
There are other side dishes available like the traditional Shanghainese pork cutlet, Shanghai’s version of Schnitzel or a Japanese Tonkatsu. It’s usually quite thin, covered in breadcrumbs and goes perfectly with the local condiment 辣酱油 which is remarkably similar to British Worcestershire sauce and pairs perfectly with the pork cutlet.
The service here is exceptional, the staff helpful and attentive. I posted a review on Dianping describing them as cheap noodles and got heavily criticised. Apparently, 30-35 RMB for a bowl of delicious noodles is not cheap. I stand corrected, but Huxi Old Alley Noodles is nevertheless a great option for the more adventurous who want to experience some local flavour away from the fine dining Bund options and hotel buffets.
I’ve visited the original location but all photos here are from the location on Shanxi South Road. Both locations have the same high standard of food and service and I would not hesitate to recommend either of them.
Changning (original) branch: 685 Dingxi Road 长宁区定西路685号
Huangpu branch: 55 Shanxi South Road 黄浦区陕西南路55号
Explore more:
Best Xiaolongbao in Shanghai | Xiaolongbao vs Shengjian | Where to Eat in Shanghai | Things to Do in Shanghai